Cabbage for Breakfast

Cabbage -- the winter vegetable. Ubiquitous on the grocery shelves in colder months, looking chilled and pale as the season. Heavy and bulky and a lot of vegetable. It looks so big, how can we ever use it all, if we don't have a family gathering we want to make a mound of Kohl slaw for, or cabbage rolls for a pot luck? I've often picked one up and then turned away, if I didn't have a specific use in mind. Spurned it in the aisle, without even a backward glance.
But cabbage is in my background, and maybe even in my blood. I come from an area of Nova Scotia known for its sauerkraut. Just a few miles down the road from my mother's seaside cottage one can jump on a little ferry and be whisked out to an island that almost seems to be frozen in time. It's small enough that people don't need licenses for their cars, and if you go without one, you will be walking for awhile down dusty roads. The Island's name is Tancook and I can promise you that if you're from Nova Scotia you know the name. Because Tancook's specialty is sauerkraut, and it's the best sauerkraut in Nova Scotia. The south shore was settled by Europeans in the 18th century, primarily, and a lot of those people were Germanic.They were mostly skilled tradesmen and their families who came on the boats, fleeing the Rhine area where the French invaders were killing them in masses. It was a long road to get to their farms and land in the Lunenburg area, but after they settled in one thing they couldn't do without was their sauerkraut. I grew up on "salt pork and sauerkraut" dinners served always with mashed potatoes, and probably with a side of mustard pickles. Full of salt, my lips would burn after eating it, but that didn't stop me from having a second helping, or developing a love of fermented cabbage, driven into the blood and bone.
It's one of my favourite foods, when I can get it. Here in Japan it's a bit scarce, but recently I got a book called Wild Fermentation by Sandor Elix Katz. It looks like sauerkraut is not that difficult to make. I intend to give it a try as the fall cabbages are now in the stores.
We can get two kinds of cabbage here that I know about. One is the standard strong-flavoured one that is similar to what I can find at home, but the other is what I like to think of as salad cabbage. It's "curly" and milder and perfect for eating straight from the head.
Before I came to Japan, other than sauerkraut and Kohl slaw, and sometimes in soup, I probably didn't eat that much cabbage. But here, in restaurants, I began to notice that cabbage was the main ingredient in many salads. They didn't have the strong taste that I associated with raw cabbage. The cabbage was cut small and finely shredded and decorated with a little seaweed, or a few tomatoes and a "wafu" (Japanese oil and vinegar) dressing; it was sweet and fragrant, and filling. It was also the base for Tonkatsu, the breaded deep fried pork cutlet, when I was still eating meat. A whole mound of it formed a nest that was a perfect foil for the slight greasiness of the meat.
Breakfast salads are a tradition in Japan. Rather than the more expensive (harder to get in the past), and now often imported fruit, salad is the star, providing fresh vitamins and crunch in the first meal of the day. Since breakfast here is often rice and the very savoury miso soup, salad makes a better pairing than the sweeter fruit. Since brown rice is featured in most of my breakfasts, I have gotten into the habit of eating a breakfast salad at least a few times a week. And since I've been on a diet, it helps fill in for those missing fat calories.
Yesterday I ate this simple salad of the mild curly cabbage, cooked soybeans, tomatoes, a few of the small bunch chives, chopped and topped with black pepper, sea salt, some dried basil and oregano, a bit of cider vinegar and a small spoon of a nice green Spanish olive oil. It was pretty good. I think next time I will add a few chunks of the fresh apples just coming into season now, and a tablespoon or two of raisins, perhaps a squeeze of one of the small green mikans (Japanese tangerines) you can find in abundance in the stores now. Cabbage loves a bit of sweetness, as do I.

